Foodka embarks on an Iftar food journey through Kolkata’s mini Lucknow — Metiabruz

Every year, numerous Kolkatans flock to Zakaria Street ahead of Eid, yet few venture to explore the hidden culinary gems of the Kolkata neighborhood known as ‘mini Lucknow’. Metiabruz, the birthplace of Kolkata's beloved biryani, rests on the banks of the Hooghly River at Bichali Ghat, where Nawab Wajib Ali Shah first settled in 1856 after migrating from Awadh, establishing his second home. Surprisingly, not many are acquainted with Rameshwarpur Road in Metiabruz, often referred to as Kolkata’s ‘Khau Galli’.

In this neighborhood, Indrajit Lahiri has embarked on a culinary journey for the latest episode of his Foodka series. “While Kolkata has long embraced Zakaria Street, Metiabruz remains a hidden gem where Nawab Wajid Ali Shah transformed it into a miniature Lucknow out of his longing for Awadh. From kite-flying to introducing attar, he infused elements of his homeland into this area. The food alley here is a testament to that rich history, yet it remains unexplored by many food enthusiasts. Hence, we decided to embark on this food walk,” Lahiri explained about the food trail.

To kick off their culinary exploration, Foodka made its first stop at Firdous Restaurant, managed by second-generation owner Mohammad Azam Ansari, renowned for its nihari in the vicinity. Following the owner's recommendation, they indulged in a delectable plate of nihari accompanied by a soft baby naan and a kulcha. Delving into the flavors, Lahiri remarked that Firdous’ nihari “sets itself apart from the ordinary. Its thick gravy, crafted through slow-cooking, demands to be relished with a piece of naan, delicately dipped into the luscious sauce.” The eatery also boasts haleem, a Ramzan delicacy, although eager patrons must arrive around 6pm to secure a taste, as it swiftly disappears after Iftar.

In search of a distinctive falooda experience, Foodka made its way to Taj Shah Milk Sweets, guided by the landmark of a modest shop known simply as ‘Rana Da’s shop’, one of the oldest establishments in the area. “If you find yourself in Metiabruz craving Shahi Falooda, just inquire about Rana Da’s shop, and directly opposite to it lies Taj Shah Milk Shop, where you can indulge in this intricate yet delightful falooda. You'll find it impossible to resist sipping it directly from the bowl, forsaking the small plastic spoon,” Lahiri explained, before enthusiastically diving into the treat himself.The Shahi Falooda is presented in a regal bowl, featuring soaked sabja (basil) seeds, milk, rabri, and rose syrup, elevating it to a truly majestic indulgence.

“Many claim that authentic Lucknowi cuisine is elusive in the city, but exploring this area proves otherwise,” remarked Foodka, who stumbled upon the Taj Ajmeri Hotel, situated opposite Noori Masjid. During Ramzan, the vicinity buzzes with activity, featuring several shops offering buttered naan, kebabs, and more. Lahiri's top pick, Taj Ajmeri Hotel, tantalizes taste buds with an array of Lucknowi specialties such as Lucknowi kulcha, sheermal, nihari, and naan. The naans are expertly baked in a traditional open-clay oven or tandoor, and upon tasting the soft bread, Foodka delivered their final verdict: “While we typically pair naan with nihari, this one requires only a simple act—breaking off a piece and savoring it as it nearly melts in your mouth.”

For the final leg of their journey, Foodka stumbled upon something truly unique while exploring Ramzan special sweets at Shahi Sweets next to Teen Wali Masjid. They were introduced to a delicacy called Khajla. “Just when I thought I knew everything, I'm proven wrong...Khajla is remarkably similar to what we recognize as Dhakai Kochuri.” Resembling a bakarkhani, this sweet delight—a crispy bowl-shaped bread soaked in sugar syrup and adorned with rabri—is typically enjoyed during Sehr. This Ramzan-exclusive dish holds significant popularity within the Bohra community.